Once again, I found myself making my way to the hallowed grounds at Borre for the unique Midgardsblot festival with its diverse combination of extreme metal, nordic folk and so much more. The festival is set within the grounds of Borre park in Southern Norway, which is of great cultural significance, being home to numerous large burial mounds from the Viking period.

This setting gives a unique atmosphere for the festival, and allows attendees to explore the rich heritage of the area both through exploring the park, walking among the burial mounds soaking up the rich atmosphere and through the Midgard Viking Centre which contains a museum with many Viking artefacts on display.

As well as the music, the festival offers daily seminars from international scholars and experts as well as guided tours of the area. There are mead and gin tasting sessions as well as signing sessions and even the opportunity to sail on a reconstruction of the famous Oseberg Viking ship.

There is also the Fólkvangr Viking Village where many reenactors set up camp with authentic historical detail, many offering crafts for sale, others simply relishing the opportunity to be part of this glimpse back into times gone by.

This area is open to festival goers to explore and learn more about the Viking era.

The festival this year had its main stage next to the impressive Gildehallen, which is a magnificent reconstruction of a Viking banquet hall giving a great setting for the concerts on this stage. The second stage was in the Kaupangr area which also held several stalls including the merch areas.

Bands also played intimate sets inside the Gildehallen (including Einherjer for their exclusive anniversary show), and finally there were also performances in the Brage Corner area. This meant that there was always something to watch, but inevitably there were a few clashes.

Special mention should also go to the food which was way above usual festival standard whether it be the fresh pizza, Thai food or Elg Burgers, but particular mention has to go to the Norske Kokkers Landsforening who effectively delivered a pop up restaurant with top chefs providing traditional Norwegian food using local ingredients.

As always, the festival opened with a Blot ceremony but as always fate decreed that I would miss it. Just before the festival, Storm Hans hit Norway causing landslides and flooding impacting on the roads and railways, meaning my well planned journey did not go smoothly. However, missing the opening Blot at the festival is obviously insignificant compared to those more seriously impacted by the storm and my thoughts go out to those individuals.

I finally arrived at the Midgardsblot site in glorious sunshine, and it really does feel like coming home each time I return.

The opening band, Finntroll, were also a little delayed meaning that they burst onto the stage just as I was walking into the arena area.

Bedecked as usual with pointy ears, face paint and bone necklaces, Finntroll created a gloriously heavy yet upbeat racket that had the pit jigging and singing along to tracks such as my personal favourite ‘Trollhammaren’.

The band looked in good spirits and although they had to cut a couple of tracks, the crowd absolutely lapped it up.

While they were a great opening band, they could easily have been much higher up the bill and it wouldn’t surprise me to see that in future years.

I had a quick wander around the merch area, before finding my spot for Lili Refrain and her intriguing, mesmerising soundscapes. Taking to the stage with her trademark black and red make up, she began by ringing hand bells and a cow bell, which were looped before upping the ante.

Hypnotic rhythms combined with vocals which were at times ethereal, while being piercing at others. As a solo artist, Lili looked dwarfed on the large stage, but she more than made up for this with her music and dense soundscapes which were perfect for the opening Midgardsblot evening.

The stage was bathed in green light as the ever expanding crowd were drawn into Lili’s dark world with many swaying or subconsciously nodding their heads as they became fully immersed in the performance.

I had a quick walk around the Fólkvangr before the hugely anticipated Sylvaine, who humbly took to the stage in an understated manner. Kathrine was inevitably the focal point at the centre of the stage flanked by the other band members, as her vocal delivery effortlessly morphed from delicate, angelic recitals to demonic howls.

The crowd was entranced by the atmospheric black metal (or black gaze or post black metal or whichever label you prefer) from start to finish as Kathrine drifted further back on the stage when not needing the microphone, content to let the music do the talking.

I’ve seen Sylvaine a few times – they never disappoint and this performance was no exception.

I ventured into the magnificent Gildehallen for my first ever, much anticipated encounter with renowned Danish dark folk artist Nanna Barslev. The group used a variety of traditional nordic instruments including Nanna who was using a frame drum alongside her exquisite vocals to create hypnotic beats that were impossible to resist and very quickly the packed hall was entranced.

This was the first of many nordic folk performances of the weekend, but was undoubtedly one of the finest.

As the night drew to close, a boisterous crowd gathered in front of the main stage, eagerly awaiting the day’s headliners, the mighty Kampfar and their distinctive brand of aggressive Nordic Black Metal.

The band wasted no time and were quickly unleashing one ferocious track after another as Dolk stalked the stage like a man possessed. The trees lining the stage area were lit with green and red lights giving a malevolent atmosphere which was perfect for this set.

Some of the newer tracks were perhaps a little slower than older material, but no less intense as their dense sound pummelled the captivated crowd. Midway through the set, Dolk took a moment to share that as a local, he used to visit Borre Park back in the 90s and reflected on the great work that had been done by the Midgardsblot organisers in having made the festival what it is today.

I always forget how ferocious Kampfar can be live, but I was left with it imprinted on my brain after this performance which was the perfect way to close the first day at this year’s Midgardsblot festival.

Review and Photos: Andy Pountney

@shot_in_the_dark_photography2 

Part 2