sonisphere 2013After last year’s Sonisphere debacle, which destroyed the UK edition and greatly impacted on the dynamic of this French one too, I wouldn’t have been surprised if that had been the end of it for Amnéville. Thankfully I was wrong. Not only that, 2013 would also see the return of massive crowds, the likes of which hadn’t been seen since the inaugural Big Four event two years ago. Formidable!

Day One

First thing’s first: it’s bloody hot. The main objective for today was to arrive in time for Behemoth‘s start time of 15:40. Despite traffic and a ridiculous parking situation, this mission was accomplished. Just. Whilst it was rather strange witnessing such an infernal band on a massive stage, in the blistering afternoon heat it’s not as if this detracted at all from their performance or presence. While at times the large festival sound was less than complimentary to the band’s pounding, technical black/death the likes of ‘Demigod’, ‘Slaves Shall Serve’ and the ancient ‘Moonspell Rise’ certainly got the day off to an excellent start. Watching him, it’s hard to believe what Nergal has overcome in recent years, especially given how much he still puts into his performance. But that’s the measure of the man. And despite missing their machine-like drummer, Infernal, the band still tore the place up. My only slight disappointment was no ‘Christians to the Lions’, but then you can’t have everything…

Following the Poles, there was a bit of time to kill as Sabaton and Bring Me the (you know the rest…) did their respective things consecutively on the second and main stages. In terms of the former, all I can say is: ‘no’; while with the latter, the most fitting adjective seems to be ‘horrendous’. It wasn’t until Amon Amarth hit the second stage that things became interesting again. Having stood outside getting drunk the last time I got to ‘see’ them (as they played my local community centre, believe it or not), I was more than up for a live dose of these marauders. From the moment they opened up with ‘War of the Gods’ it became quickly apparent what a perfect festival band they are. ‘Pursuit of Vikings’ raised the stakes further, provoking swathes of the huge drunken crowd into movement and mimicking the riffs in ‘duh-duh-duh-duh-duh’ fashion. Obviously Johann Hegg is the focal point of the band but the raw, chugging power and melodies created by the band are what really make it all come off so brilliantly – as exemplified by tracks like ‘Death in Fire’ and ‘Twilight of the Thunder God’.

In contrast to the brotherly vibe created by Amon Amarth, during which a Frenchman kindly gave me a croissant (yes, really), came the blind idiocy of some of Motörhead‘s disciples. One such cretin spilled half my five euro beer, and consequently received a providential toe-punt up the arse as he continued on his way flailing through people from behind. Putain de merde! Any such negative experiences were soon forgotten however, as Lemmy and friends busted out a full-on ‘Overkill’ attack, with ‘Damage Case’, ‘Stay Clean’ and ‘Metropolis’ blasted out in succession. What more could you ask for? Well, then we were treated to ‘Over the Top’, ‘Rock It’ and a thunderous rendition of ‘The Chase is Better than the Catch’. Things slowed down a bit with ‘Just Cos You Got the Power’ – as Lemmy acknowledged, for his benefit. How many other 170 year olds can you imagine blasting this kind of music, wearing cowboy boots in blistering heat? Not many I would wager. With such a leaning to all things classic, the set unsurprisingly wound down with more of the same – ‘Going to Brazil’, ‘Killed by Death’ and that staple of ‘Ace of Spades’ and ‘Overkill’.

To say I was happy after such a fine performance would be an understatement of the highest order. It was somewhat ironic then that following Motörhead was a band who I only had the misfortune of witnessing once as their support act: In Flames. To be honest, I only saw about three minutes then before finding solace at the UEA bar. What I heard today didn’t endear them to me any further, with the snippets I did hear sounding like a watered-down version of nu-‘metal’ ffs. Compared to their earlier musical proficiency, how is it possible for a band to have gone so awry?! Then again, the only reason I came today was Slayer, which perhaps goes some way to explaining my consternation at such musical ‘evolution’. Months before Dave Lombardo was seemingly given the bullshit treatment, and the shocking news of Jeff Hanneman’s death, Slayer was announced as one of the bands playing Sonisphere. The last time I got to see them was at the same festival in 2011; before that, it had been nine long years of waiting to get the opportunity again. Unlike the vitriolic internet hordes, I was actually rather happy that they would still be appearing in light of recent events…

As dusk slowly began to take hold, the taped intro to ‘World Painted Blood’ emerged to rapturous greeting. Then the band kicked in, from which point my view of things changed from being that of a slightly beered up individual to a red-misted lunatic unable to resist screaming his lungs out and attempting to headbang his bald skull off the end of his neck. ‘Hallowed Point’ – something I hadn’t seen them play before, ‘War Ensemble’ and ‘Hate Worldwide’ certainly did not help stem the tide of my self-destructive fervour. Based on recent setlists and the band’s stage time of well over an hour, I was optimistic (and praying) that ‘At Dawn They Sleep’ was going to accompany the introductory storm. Alas, it didn’t, and I was more than a little deflated. On the other hand, this very fact probably saved my neck from greater injury. Instead, a fairly pedestrian patch consisting of ‘Stain of Mind’, ‘Disciple’ and ‘Bloodline’ followed. Excellence was not far away though, as ‘Chemical Warfare’ proceeded to tear off unsuspecting faces. I guess the point with this band – as demonstrated by my otherwise irrational behaviour – is that they transcend mere musical status.

Everything you need to understand about Slayer can be appreciated from watching them in the dark. The barbarity and atmospherics of the music are enhanced by the swathes of dry-ice and excellent combination of lights penetrating through it; a fact I had almost forgotten, having not seen them indoors since 1998. With all this in mind, the likes of ‘Mandatory Suicide’ and ‘Seasons in the Abyss’ even managed to imprint on my better half why Slayer is the most important band in the history of the world, ever. At least I think that’s what she got from it, judging by her comment that they were ‘better than last time’. ‘Dead Skin Mask’ provided the necessary quota of serial killer madness to sing along to, while for the encore of ‘South of Heaven’ and ‘Angel of Death’, a Hanneman dedicated backdrop acknowledged the band’s immense loss. Far from coming across as cynical or insensitive – as have been the trendiest accusations to sling at the remaining members – this touch was an awesome and 1,000,000% sincere dedication to their bandmate of 30 years. Never before have I yelled ‘on and on south of Heaven’ with such lung bursting conviction.

Precisely because this may be the beginning of the end for Slayer, tonight was a bitter-sweet experience; sad because so much of the great stuff was composed by one man who is no longer here, but great because this was Slayer doing what they do despite everything. On a final note, it was also nice to see Paul Bostaph back behind the kit: he hasn’t lost it. Perhaps the one shame was a complete absence of anything ‘Divine Intervention’ but what are you going to do? I still managed to blow out my throat and neck sufficiently, and can say that of the six times I’ve seen this band since 1995, this rated among the most memorable. R.I.P. Jeff, and thanks! Memories will never die…

Setlist:

World Painted Blood

Hallowed Point

War Ensemble

Hate Worldwide

Stain of Mind

Disciple

Bloodline

Chemical Warfare

The Antichrist

Mandatory Suicide

Seasons in the Abyss

Dead Skin Mask

Raining Blood

South of Heaven

Angel of Death

Following the most important band of all time was something called Korn on the second stage. I had heard of it before, and bearing in mind Billy Milano’s words that it is ‘something you find in your shit after a barbeque’, I obviously didn’t hang around to look at it. And so, that was the end of my ‘day one’ at Sonisphere France. Away from the dust and noise of the site anything other than hell awaited as I journeyed back home for a shower and rest in the comfort of my own bed (I know, what a poseur…). Although I did suffer a little when opting to spray deep-heat all over the back of my sunburnt and furiously abused neck. Such a napalm effect is not recommended even if it does ultimately help.

Day 2 follows tomorrow

Jamie Wilson